by Dom Sweeney for Gourmet Traveller WINE
The threat of climate change may be a widely debated issue in the political arena but its existence, according to many of Australia’s viticulturists and winemakers, is nothing short of real. With many of our best-known wine regions now experiencing hotter, earlier vintages, the communities behind them are quickly but carefully looking to adopt one or a number of sustainable production approaches to ensure a healthy future with plenty of world-class wine.
Mediterranean Diet
Despite our infatuation with – and reputation for – classic bold reds such as shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, it’s the grape varieties native to the Mediterranean that seem to have secured the most promising future in our continually warming climate. While producers such as Pizzini in the King Valley have long been ahead of the curve in their cultivation of Italian varieties, traditionally cooler climate regions such as Bendigo and Heathcote in Central Victoria, where beautiful, medium-weight pinot noir and shiraz have always typically flourished, have experienced dramatic climatic shifts in recent years. The upshot is a fast-growing season and lots of irrigation that often results in jammy wines lacking complexity and finesse. Producers like Sutton Grange are experimenting with varieties more suited to a warming climate – think sangiovese and aglianico from Italy – while others such as the Chalmers family are seeing outstanding results from sun-loving Sicilians like nero d’Avola and vermentino. In McLaren Vale, where the vineyards meet the sea, the warm Mediterranean climate is more than suitable for varieties like grenache that thrive on low amounts of water and high levels of sunshine, with producers such as Coriole, Yangarra and Oliver’s Taranga enjoying great success with these varieties, while wineries like Mount Majura in the Canberra District and First Ridge in Mudgee are crafting phenomenal wines from tempranillo and barbera respectively.
It’s Only Natural
The term ‘natural wine’ has been bandied about a lot in recent years; for some it refers to wine that has had hardly anything done to it, while for others it might just refer to anything in the glass that’s as far removed from convention as physically possible. In reality, natural wine, or minimal intervention wine, should be the result of careful viticulture and thoughtful winemaking, following organic and/or biodynamic principles, with minimal additives – including sulfites (there are over 50 legal wine additives in Australia that don’t require a mention on the label). The producers following these sustainable principles are helping push the boundaries for Australian wine, typically with a stronger focus on vineyard management than the actual winemaking, and an emphasis on planting the right grape variety on the right site. Producers such as Tom Shobbrook of Shobbrook Wines, Anton van Klopper of Lucy Margaux, William Downie and Pat Sullivan are leading lights of Australia’s natural wine movement; they’ve adopted a mindful approach to their craft that is more akin to ‘grape farming’ than commercial winemaking.
Altitude or Latitude
Recent wine drinking trends have seen a surge in popularity for elegant, European-style wines – reds such as pinot noir and nebbiolo, and whites such as marsanne, viognier and crisp, mineral-style chardonnay – which typically require cooler vineyard sites and longer growing seasons. With the heat of climate change now affecting many sites that were once perfect for these wine styles, many producers are looking to plant grapes at higher altitudes, in places like the lofty Adelaide Hills and Tumbarumba, or further south in areas like Southern Tasmania. The results from these regions are increasingly promising, vintage after vintage; with more collective winemaking knowledge than ever before, coupled with an industry continually focusing on the importance of site, soil and climate, Australia’s vinous future is in very safe hands.
Andrew grew up in South Australia’s McLaren Vale. Born into a winemaking family, he drew his first inspiration from his father Wayne Thomas, who had a distinguished career in winemaking. After graduating with a degree in Oenology at the famous Roseworthy Agricultural College, and despite being groomed for a winemaking career in South Australia, he began his winemaking journey at Tyrrell’s Vineyards in the Hunter Valley. During 13 years guidance under the legendary Murray Tyrrell at Tyrrell’s Wines, he gained a deep respect, and driving passion of the two signature varieties of the region – semillon and shiraz.
Over the years Thommo has formed close and collaborative alliances with an impressive list of local growers. These growers own and operate arguably some of the Hunter Valley’s most distinguished sites, producing world class, uniquely regional styles. Each wine is destined to showcase its unique vineyard signature and express a real sense of place.
Regarding his winemaking style, Andrew says, ‘Whilst I have always applied a no compromise, attention to detail approach to my winemaking, I truly believe that 90% of the quality lies in the vineyard. The key to great wine is ‘keeping it simple’ to preserve that potential quality from the vine through to the bottle.’
For over 30 years, Bruce Schoenfeld’s frank and informative journalism has appeared in many of the most respected publications that cover wine. For years a contributing editor at Wine Spectator, he spent a decade as the wine editor of Travel + Leisure. He has written for Gourmet, Saveur, Food & Wine and Wine & Spirits, as well as WIRED and National Geographic Traveler, and he contributes several long pieces annually to The World of Fine Wine. He has published two books and won two Emmy Awards, and he also regularly writes about sports for ESPN, The New York Times Magazine, and other publications. At home in the Rocky Mountain foothills, he plays basketball, drinks Barolo, and spends as much time as possible with his wife and two sons.
The Royal Agricultural Society of NSW (RAS) is a not for profit organisation committed to supporting agricultural development and rural communities in Australia. It has been an influential force in the direction and development of Australian agriculture through competitions, education and events since its foundation in 1822. The KPMG Sydney Royal Wine Show is conducted annually by the RAS and has a long and proud history of recognising the best of Australian wine, dating back to 1826.
The KPMG Sydney Royal Wine Show engages the most experienced and respected Judges in the industry and endorses the development of future judges. The process is overseen by a Chair of Judges (currently PJ Charteris) and includes six separate judging panels. Each panel consists of one Panel Chair, two Senior Judges and two Associate Judges.
With a national reputation as a skilled presenter and educator, 2019 will be PJ Charteris’ second year in the position of Chair of Judges for the KPMG Sydney Royal Wine Show. He follows in the footsteps of industry heavyweights such as Samantha Connew, Iain Riggs, James Halliday, Brian Croser, and Len Evans. He brings a wealth of knowledge of Australian wine, understanding the great regional and sub regional diversity of the industry, as well as an trained palate having being involved in the judging show system for over 20 years across several regional and state Shows. PJ also runs Charteris Wine Consulting as well as his own small label Charteris Wines in New Zealand.